Dear Whisky/ Beer Customers
Welcome to the latest newsletter. Firstly, as always I'm on my soap-box and today's question is 'Has the SWA (Scotch Whisky Association) gone Mad?'
I ask this question in all honesty in light of two recent events. The first was there condemnation of the ?Quadruple distilled Bruichladdich?, which I?m sure that you have all heard about, but for those who have not Bruichladdie decided to recreate the ancient sprit called ?Usquebaugh-bual? (the Gaelic for ?perilous whisky?) which was described by the 17th century travel writer Martin Martin in his 1695 travel book. In what is probably the worlds oldest whisky tasting note, he says that ?The first taste affects all the members of the body?, adding that ?Two spoonfuls of this last liquor is a sufficient dose; if any man should exceed this, it would presently stop his breath, and endanger his life?
Obviously I can say that after tasting it I?m still very much alive, and here lies the reason that the SWA have got in a flap. It supposedly ran off the stills at 92% abv, which is below the legally permitted maximum strength of 94%. However the SWA have condemned the fact that ?Undue emphasis on high alcohol content is irresponsible and should be not used as the basis of any products appeal to the consumer?.
This statement seems reasonable, but the point is that Bruichladdich haven?t been the ones who have made a big deal about its abv, the press have. Mark Reynier, released this statement. ?Obviously we advocate the sensible consumption of alcohol. Yet some people, notably the Scotch Whisky Association, without knowing our intentions, tell us we are ?irresponsible? to distill such a whisky. We respectfully suggest that they mind there own business.? We have filled 54 American oak casks for maturation. It will lose strength to the angles as it matures. When it is deemed to be ready to drink by Master Distiller Jim McEwan, it will be Islay bottled at a strength deemed appropriate at the time.? He went on to say that ?If they bothered to read the articles released before the distillation took place, they would have known that it was [the abv] a theoretical figure?. Indeed the sample that I have tasted was 89%.
The point that the press and the SWA have missed is that it will loose its strength quite quickly, probably more so that a spirit that has been distilled at 65-70% abv, which looses 1-2% abv per year. Also both vodka and gin is distilled to around 96%, but nobody complains about that, because its abv is reduced prior to bottling, which is what I assume will happen to this, as Bruichladdich?s preferred bottling strength is as you know 46%. The final point to make on this subject is that the SWA is not a regulatory body, in fact it is a trade organisation owned by the big boys, such as Diageo, Pernod, Grants, etc and many of the smaller, independent distillers are not members.
So all the fuss aside, what does it taste like? On the nose there is a lot of alcohol (obviously) but once you have adjusted to it there are the unmistakable aromas of new make Bruichladdich, full of crisp apples and cereal aromas. It is delicate and elegant, less oily and heavy than there usual new make spirit and had to me notes of rose petal and straw, which reminded me of French Marc. On the palate it reinforced the Marc like quality with those straw and rose petal notes. It is light and elegant and quite floral for a laddie. When a drop of water was added it brought out glorious aromas of sweet digestives and cereal and gave the fruit a lovely sweetness. On the palate it really emphasised the rose petals, oil and brought some delicate sweet spices to the forefront, which built and lasted ? Wow what a spicy finish.
So when will it be released. Mark Reynier believes that it will still be maturing well into its seventieth year, and who knows, he may well be right. However because of the lightness of the spirit I?m sure that it will be swamped by the oak flavours by that time. I personally would like to see it bottles quite young, say between 8 and 12 years of age. I think by then it will have picked up just enough creamy vanillins to compliment the delicate fruit, and we all know that Jim?s greatest whiskies are the ones in which all the flavours including those from the oak are in perfect harmony.
The second piece of SWA madness is to do with John Glaser at Compass Box They have asked him to cease production of their ?Spice Tree? and they have agreed to this, although I believe that they are still in negotiation with them. Apparently the issue revolves around the SWA?s interpretation of the law regarding traditional practice in the production of spirits in European Union countries. They apparently they have a problem with its secondary maturation process. Instead of having completely new casks made from high quality wine-grade French Sessile oak, he had inner staves made, which were inserted into whisky casks. Now I am completely baffled as why this process is considered illegal, yet cutting down Scottish oak for new barrels or using ex wine casks is perfectly fine. At the end of the day the spirit comes into contact with the oak, whether it is staves or a complete barrel should not make any difference at all, personally they should be more concerned with the quality of the product not its maturation.
All I can say is that if these so called guardians of the Scotch Whisky Industry want to stamp on any producer or blender that dares to innovate then it is a sad day for all of us that love whisky. One final thought on ?traditional practices? is that not so long ago distillers would put their spirit into any old casks that they could get their hands on with the inevitable results. Sometimes tradition isn?t all that it is cracked up to be.
NEW BEER
Now as they say, time for something completely different. Due to supply problems I have had to re-do the Beer list. I have decided just to concentrate on three breweries. Alcazar Brewery here in Nottingham, which I introduced to you awhile ago, the Traditional Scottish Ales from the Heather Ale Company and Woodfords Norfolk Ales which come from just outside of my home town of Norwich. I am more than happy to put together mixed cases across the range of Woodforde?s and Alcazar, but the Scottish Ales are already in a gift pack. We can also offer
free delivery for orders placed during June and July.
ALCAZAR BREWERY NOTTINGHAM
The Alcazar Brewery was set up in 1999 by David Allen a Canadian chemical engineer and amateur beer maker on a quest to find decent beer, as apparently a good traditional beer is now extinct in Canada, so he found himself in Nottingham and decided to set up a brewery at the Fox and Crown pub in New Basford Nottingham. I discovered their range of cask ales at the Nottingham Beer festival, and toughly enjoyed them, and as they have now started producing a range of bottled beers dedicated to the characters from the 'Robin Hood' myths.
I have decided to support this local business and spread the word about how good their beers are. Their range is as follows.
Maidens Magic 5.0% abv 500ml ?2.50
A dark Brown Ale, smooth, treacly with dark fruits and a smooth dark bitterness. Tangy and mouthfilling and long, with a light treacle, honey and malt flavour lingering on the palette.
Scarlet Fervour 5.5% abv 500ml ?2.60
A strong, deep, traditional English Extra Special Bitter with lots of dark ale hops. Full bodied, rich and softly bitter with a long length and chocolaty aftertaste.
Little John's Myth 6.0% abv 500ml ?2.75
A smooth flavoured, robust Porter. Full bodied with lots of rich dark coffee and chocolate flavours. It has a more tangy fruitiness than the stout with a long, malty, tangy sweet bitterness.
Bowman's Bounty 7.0% abv 500ml ?2.95
A strong and intensely hoppy Indian Pale Ale with cereal, wheat and fruit notes. A clean and refreshing character, straight as an arrow with a lager bitterness.
Gaoler's Ale 7.5% abv 500ml ?3.00
A traditional Old Ale. Dark, tangy, malty bitter with clean dark fruit. Quite delicately flavoured with plums and malted fruit. Good length and a sweetish finish.
Devout Stout 8.0% abv 500ml ?3.10
Rich, full bodied English Style Imperial Stout. Quite earthy and slightly hoppy with lots of treacle, malt, chocolate and coffee flavours. It is an alcoholic cappuccino. Powerful, lasting and more devily than devout!
WOODFORDE?S NORFOLK ALES
In 1981 Woodforde?s Norfolk Ales produced the first commercial brew of Wherry Bitter at their original brewery in Drayton, near Norwich. In 1996, just fifteen years later, Wherry Bitter was awarded the ultimate prize in the brewing world - it became CAMRA Supreme Champion Beer of Britain. Woodforde?s was established by Ray Ashworth and Dr David Crease, both enthusiastic members of the Norwich Homebrewers? Society. With many years of commercial experience in banking and teaching between them, they were both fully aware of the increasing demand for cask conditioned traditional ales.
The brewery was named after
Parson Woodforde, a noted eighteenth century Norfolk clergyman whose diaries reveal his passion for good food and good ale - which he often brewed himself. After a short while, it became obvious that the company?s modern industrial unit in Drayton was not particularly well suited to the brewing of traditional ale, with considerable temperature fluctuations, and a mains water supply of varying quality. Therefore, in 1983 a move to The Spread Eagle at Erpingham, near Aylsham, gave Woodforde?s a far more suitable home for the brewery, in a converted stable block behind the traditional country pub. Unfortunately, the new brewery had barely been open a month before disaster struck and fire gutted the premises. Not to be defeated, the brewery continued to supply its customers with the help of of Peter Mauldon, another independent brewer who took over temporary production in Sudbury in neighbouring Suffolk. Three months later when the brewery had been rebuilt.
The demand for Woodforde?s beers continued to grow, together with an enviable reputation for beers which were outstandingly drinkable. Eventually, the demand for the expanding range of beers outgrew their second premises and by 1988 they had been forced to look around yet again for premises which could cope with the increase in business. Ray Ashworth located some disused farmbuildings owned by the Cator family at Woodbastwick to the East of Norwich, and conversion to a brewery took over a year to complete. ?Broadland Brewery? was officially opened in October 1989. Originally, two cottages adjacent to the new brewery were used as offices, and these were subsequently converted into the brewery tap in 1992. A major expansion of Broadland Brewery took place in 2001-2003 to more than double production capacity and included 6 additional fermenters, automated cask washing, cask racking system, automated cleaning (CIP) system, new beer store, and new shop and visitor centre.
I have always loved there beer, they are extremely polished and smooth. They are ideal for summer drinking, as they are all (with the exception of the Nog) based around an IPA recipe.
Wherry 3.8% abv 500ml ?2.90
CAMRA Supreme Champion Beer of Britain 2005 and CAMRA Champion Bitter of Britain 2005.
Clean, rich and fruity. Very wheaty/ hoppy with a floral note and zesty, tangy citrus fruit. Softly bitter with a lovely malt background. Very polished and smooth, and ideal summer session ale.
Great Eastern 4.3% abv 500ml ?3.20
First brewed in 1994 to commemorate 150 years of the Great Eastern Railway in Norfolk.
Crisp and fruity with apricot and yellow fruits, along with a touch of citrus. Soft, lager bitter, very polished with a nice depth and a touch of light malt. Good length with a hoppy after taste and slight floral note. Should appeal to both lager and bitter drinkers.
Nelson?s Revenge 4.5% abv 500ml ?3.05
CAMRA Champion Best Bitter of Britain 2004/05.
Named after Norfolk's most famous hero and apparently brewed to avenge the invasion of 'foreign' beers into Norfolk!
Clean, very much like a deeper version of the Whery. Wheaty and hoppy with more chocolate/ coffee malt especially on the finish. It has a lovely lightness which means it certainly doesn?t taste like a 4.5% beer.
Norfolk Nog 4.6% abv 500ml ?3.05
CAMRA Champion Old Ale of Britain 2003/04.
Lovely aromas, rich and dark. Very malty with coffee, treacle, toasty dark fruits and soft spices. Lovely balance, not too heavy. Very long and polished with dried fruit, smoke and licorice notes
Admiral?s Reserve 5.0% abv 500ml ?3.20
Brewed in the traditional English strong pale ale style, and was launched in April 2002 to celebrate Woodforde's 21st Anniversary (1981-2002).
Dark chestnut in colour. Very, very fruity and wheaty with coffee malt and dark malty fruit. Polished, softly bitter and roasted with hoppy notes on the finish.
Headcracker 7.0% abv 500ml ?3.90
CAMRA Champion Barley Wine of Britain 2005/06 and CAMRA Supreme Champion Winter Beer of Britain 2005/06.
Strong and intense with crisp plum and summer fruits soaked in alcohol. Interesting and complex with a lovely crisp tanginess and wonderfully soft fruit. It tastes a lot stronger than 7%, so beware it may live up to its name!
HEATHER ALES
Historic Ales of Scotland 4 pack ?8.20 ? Contains one 330ml bottle each of the following.
Faroch ? Heather Ale. Brewed in Scotland for 4000 years and is the oldest style still made in the world Originally brewed by the Picts. This ale is produced to a 16th century Scots-Gallic recipe from malted barley ?bree?, sweet gale and heather flowers. The hot ale is infused in heather flowers before being fermented in copper tuns. - Very smooth and malty, quite floral and mouthfilling with hints of earthy peat and chocolate on the finish.
Alba ? Introduced by the Vikings, spruce and pine ales were very popular in the Scottish Highlands until the end of the 19th century. Many early explorers, including Captain Cook, used spruce ale during long sea voyages since it prevented scurvy and ill health. Shetland spruce ale was said to "stimulate animal instincts" and give you twins. Alba is a triple style ale brewed to a traditional Highland recipe from Scots pine and spruce shoots pickled during early spring. Pure malted barley, is boiled with the young sprigs of pine for several hours then the fresh shoots of the spruce are added for a short infusion before fermentation. Very dark and malty, woody and dense with a lovely malty richness of dark fruit and pine needles.
Gosset ? Since the 16th century Scots monks and Alewives have brewed special concoctions from a blend of malts, wild spices and ripe gooseberries. Amongst the Scots literati of the 19th century it was immortalized as ?a most convivial drink? ? Light, fruity and refreshing with wheat, gooseberry/ green fruit notes in the finish, along with a larger-esque bitterness.
Ebulum ? Elderberry black ale was introduced to Scotland by Welsh druids in the 9th century and was part of the Celtic Autumn festivals where the ale was passed around the people of the village. This reciepe was taken from a 16th century record of domestic drinking in the Scottish highlands. ? Very dark, malty, burnt caramel, stewed dark fruit. Deep and mouth filling with a complexity of flavours, bitter coffee, wood, hickory and bramble fruit. Very long and very good.
A GENERAL ROUND UP OF TASTINGS
Bowmore 1991 (14 year old) 57.8% Dewar Rattray Bottling ?43.95
A very heavy, sticky nose of treacle toffee and fudge followed by peat, iodine and that Laphroaig-esque medicinal note. Finally some distant smoke wafts in along with some sea air and decomposing bog myrtle. Ah that smelly old Islay ? I love it! On the palate it is rich and smoky with a luxurious toffee treacle, smoke and more smoke for good measure. A classic old Bowmore. There is a touch of peat, then more coal smoke/ charcoal. Ok so this might not be the most complex Bowmore I?ve ever tasted, but it dose exactly what it says on the tin ? pass me that coal scuttle please! For the full impact I?d have it without water.
Teaninich 1975 (30 year old) 60.8% Dewar Rattray Bottling ?88.95
Rich, deep and gloriously succulent of the nose with vanilla infused apricot and yellow fruits, some oil, butter toffee and lashings of juicy fruit and a pure vanilla pod freshness. Stunning complexity. On the palate it is rich and fruit, quite oily with loads of spicy apricot. There is quite a lot of alcohol for its age but it is beautifully balanced, fruity and creamy with a late vanilla rush. A drop of water opens up the nose, emphasizing the clean vanilla fruit and spicy, possibly making it even more buttery. It softens the palate emphasizing the creamy vanilla and oils, it might mellow it but it still has a spicy kick at the finish. I can?t believe that this is 30!
Springbank 1992 (12 year old) 46% Murray McDavid Bottling ?38.95
Finished in ex-Mourvedre and Syrah casks
If I was to sum this whisky up in one word?. It would be?? feminine. It has a very floral nose, almost like a rose wine, yet underneath there is some herbal malt, a touch of earthiness and some salinity. On the palate it tastes younger than 12 years old. It opens with lots of spicy red fruit, soft succulent malt, a touch of earthy cereal (showing its youth?), followed by coffee, herbs and salinity. Finishing with the spicy fruit returning. The palate is quite sweet but nicely balanced. This one is definitely for the ladies!
Bruichladdich Infinity Distillery Bottling 55.5% ?40.95
Refill Sherry
A youthful nose of rich, oily, lusciously spiced, honey, dates and dried fruit, with a deep marmalade complexity of mature sherry notes. All set against a gently earthy/ peat/ sea air background. Medium bodied with the youthful peat of the Port Charlotte greeting the palate initially, followed by waves of Oloroso fruit, earth, salt, smoke and honeyed oranges. Smooth and long with malty, wood flavours on the finish. Water brings out the floral honeysuckle aromas and softens the palate emphasising its creamy spiciness and its coastal character, especially on the finish.
Bruichladdich 15 year old Second Edition Distillery Bottling 46% ?39.95
Ex Bourbon cask, which has spent a further 25 weeks finishing in ex Chateau Yquem casks. Lovely maturing aromas of floral, earthy, apricot, apple, creme brulee, vanilla and a delicate toffee digestive, sweet note along with orange blossom and a touch of salinity. Off-dry on the palate with a lovely balance and complexity. Delicate with soft apricot, apple, orange spice and creamy oak, drifting into a lightly peated, smoke and coastal fruit finish, leaving a delicate sweetness and just a suggestion of the Saturnes cask. Lovely mouth feel and very long.
Glentauchers 1990 (14 year old) Duncan Taylor Bottling 46% ?30.95
Clean and slightly oily aromas of tangerine, vanilla oak, oily spices and dusty orange fruit. Dry and clean on the palate opening with dusty spices and delicate fruit, then, bang, out of nowhere comes the lovely hard, crisp barley, more spices and a hint of juniper. Very long with the gin-like botanicals lasting , along with the spice!
Glenrothes 1968 (37 year old) Duncan Taylor Bottling 57.2% ?85.95
Stunning, deep, mature and complex nose with a pronounced intensity of cognac-esque dried citrus fruit, apricot, orange and peach along with sumptuous spicy, cinnamon wood notes, ginger, liquid toffee, a touch of vanilla along with a slight floral top note. The aromas come rolling in waves. Mellow, medium-full bodied opening with the cognac-esque fruits, then lavender, floor polish, tangy honeyed apricot and orange, followed by bucket loads of spice, a touch of smoke, sherry spice, marmalade orange, citrus peel finally descending into a mellow cinnamon and ginger conserve, liquid honey and a touch of black pepper on the finish. Do not under any circumstances add any water to this venerable malt it really kills the intensity. Definitely one for after dinner.
Dallas Dhu 1981 (24 year old) Duncan Taylor Bottling 58.3% ?75.95
Sherry Cask.
Crisp, clean and granity fresh nose. A classic Highland (Yes I know it?s a Speysider). Buckets of honied orange and sherry spice. It?s soft and succulent with liquid orange and that lovely granity bite. Dry and crisp on the palate. It opens with slightly botanical fruit followed by crisp malt, earthy honied fruit with a very intense and tangy middle. It dissolves into a superb oily orange fruit finish, with the dusty spices and granity hard note remaining. Water mellows the nose bringing out a vanilla note. On the palate it brings it all together into a rich, honied fruitiness, yet its tangy/ granity character still prevails ? Superb.
Glen Keith 1967 Gordon & MacPhail Bottling 46% ?65.95
Rich, sherried aromas of erarth, nuts, dried fruit, cognac and toffee with a lively spirity edge. Sweet and smooth, full of sherried fruit along with hints of earth, tobacco, and spice. A touch of salt comes through on the middle. A big, full flavoured dram with a long length.
Dalwhinnie 15 year old Distillery Bottling 40% ?31.95
Clean, dry and light on the nose. A curious mix of chlorine fresh orange/ lemon fruit, heather, oak, salt and a gentle peat. Dry on the palate, sweet and sliky fruit and malt, then comes a wave of sugar and soft peat, finishing with cocoa, salt and sweet honey notes. Very nice.
Edradour 10 year old Distillery Bottling ?33.95
Clean, youthful, oily nose. Quite weighty with charming heather, biscuits, toasted honey, dry sherry and citrus fruit. Medium-Sweet with honey, heather, quite viscous, and medium bodied. Very floral on the middle with a nice tangy length with the oak appearing on the finish. Good length with a long heathery after taste. ? A bit sweet for my tastes but lovely nevertheless.
Glenfarclas 105 (8 year old) Distillery Bottling 60% ?33.95
Clean aromas of dark malt, vanilla fudge, assam tea and dried fruit all set against a background of clean sherry. Dry, medium bodied, intense, oily apricot, rich malt, coffee, dried fruit, wood tannins, assam tea leaves, integrated clean sherry and a long complex finish. Water brings out a custard cream note plus a touch of gun flint and floor polish. It softens the palate brining out the rich fruit cake flavours, still the tannins and the tea leaves remain on the finish.
Glengoyne 15 year old Scottish Oak Finish 40% ?42.95
Softer, less resiny on the nose than the first bottling. I suspect that this is due to the fact that the Scottish oak casks are know re-filled. The nose is also sweeter with a huge depth of orange/ apricot fruit, earth and dunnage floors. Rounded and fruity with a touch mint/ menthol, light coffee and a hint of pine. The palate opens with waves of sweet orange/ tangerine fruit followed by wood tannins and subtle spice, a touch of mint/ menthol and an almost sherry cask sweetness. An unbelievably huge finish with the creamy Seville orange flavour lasting.
Isle of Jura Superstition 45% ?29.95
A blend of old unpeated malt & young peated malt. A sot, delicately fruity, aromatic nose. Sherry, pine, salt with a young oily edge & hints of peat. On the palate it is young, yet soft, sweet & fruity with tangy caramelised orange, peat & salt. In time it opens up to display spicy honey, peat & salt, exiting with a crisp, tangy, marine ending. Young & exuberant but with lovely rounded edges.
Highland Park 12 year old 40% ?29.95
Clean, pronounced & complex aromas of tar, old rope, iodine, heather, rich sherried fruits, blood oranges, a touch of peat & vegetal notes, with the creamy oak coming through later. Complex & majestic on the palate. Dry, med-body & quite viscous. The flavours are initially quite delicate but build to a complex intensity of sherried fruit, salt & heather. Very soft with a touch of charcoal/ peat on the middle. Very long with a youthful salty, smoky tinge.
Well that?s it for now. Comments and orders to the usual address.
Sincerely
Chris Goodrum