Dear Whisky Customers
It?s a funny thing life isn?t it? You hand out some praise and generally speaking you never hear anything, but as soon as you criticize, well that?s a different matter! Ok so I?ve had a bit of a dig at the whisky magazine in the last couple of newsletters (good naturedly!) and this finally elicited a response from Rob Allanson the editor, who from the tone of his voice initially wasn?t exactly happy, but we spoke at length about what I was hoping to achieve and whisky things in general and by the end of the conversation I think he was happier, although I?m certain he?ll tell me if he wasn?t! He also pointed out that they only have a couple of competitions a year. To me it just seems like more!
I have been wondering if maybe I am too outspoken (answers on a postcard please!). I mean as far as whisky goes I?ll happily call a spade a spade. I have no sponsors, advertisers or any other shackles to contend with and I would like to say that I always try to see the good points in every sample that I taste although sometimes samples have no redeeming characteristics whatsoever. So the way I see it is that I am just being honest and chances are if I think its rubbish then so are you the customers and there is no way I could recommend a whisky to a customer that I didn?t believe was a good expression. Another point I?d like to make is that if you don?t receive criticism, as long as it is constructive then there is no incentive to up your game so to speak. Oh and before you ask, yes I have received critical emails! And the occasional nice one too!
Right there is quiet a bit to get through so pay attention at the back, as I?ll be asking questions later! (only joking!)
NEW BOTTLINGS FROM BLADNOCH
Raymond and the team at Bladnoch have been busy of late and kindly sent me some samples of not one but four new distillery bottlings. These included a 14 year old bottled at 40%, a 16 year old bottled at 55%, a 16 year old finished for two years in ex-rum casks which I was especially looking forward to trying as the previous bottling was superb (although Jim Murray disagreed!) and finally a 15 year old bottled at 46% matured in sherry casks.
I was to honest a bit disappointed by the 40% bottling, it seemed a lot younger on the nose and quiet spirity and high toned. It showed more maturity on the palate but was quiet short. The other bottlings were superb and up to Raymond?s usual high standard. Tasting notes below.
Bladnoch 16 year old Rum Finish 46% ?42.95
Quiet a big and expansive nose, classic Bladnoch aromas mingle with buttered rum toffees, dried fruits and lazy sweet spices. It?s a bit schizophrenic, swirl it around the glass and one minute it?s all grassy citrus-ness and the next time it?s all buttered toffee. It?s quiet mad really and I love it! On the palate the entry is soft and sweet with the buttered rum toffee flavours predominating, yet slowly the distillery character seeps through. It has a lovely mouth feel with oodles of tangy, spicy, citrus, apricot and a touch of tropical fruit. Wow this really wakes up the palate; it certainly tasted higher than 46% (the last bottling was bottled at 57.4%). A drop of water doesn?t diminish its Jekyl and Hide character on the nose yet on the palate it rounds it out; the distillery character is now more prevalent although it retains its sweetness nicely. Now the finish is playing a supporting role like it should do. It is very grassy with a floral note and the gorgeous spice drifts in effortlessly on the finish. Absolutely yummy!
Bladnoch 16 year old 55% ?46.95
One word. Wow! Great nose! (Ok that?s three!) Deep, heavy and lusciously oily with loads of apricot, orange, grass, earth, citrus and vanilla. Extremely harmonious and stunning. Definitely Bladnoch at it?s best. The palate like the nose is deep, rich and pretty much mirrors the nose. The finish is stunning with a wonderful sweetness. A drop of water emphasizes the grass and sweet spice notes along with fern and bracken (?). On the palate it certainly has the wow factor, emphasisng the sweetness, and like the nose bringing out the fauna and spice (cinnamon). Now it has a real spicy kick to it and the finish lasts for ages!
Bladnoch 15 year old Sherry Cask 46% ?41.95
A very intense nose. Very soft and polished. As to be expected there is a huge amount of sherry character, redolent of luscious, melting orange fruits, a touch of smoke and malt. Then in wades the butterscotch and natural caramel. Underneath all this lurks the grassy/ earthy citrus aromas and a faint whiff of gun powder, which I don?t think spoils the enjoyment. The palate is luxurious, soft, smooth and loaded with butterscotch and natural caramel, coating the palate in lovely malty fruit. Very, very intense and powerful, the citrus fruit pokes it head up in the finish. Lovely tangy finish with loads of earth and sweet spice and a big buttery finale. Definitely one to savour with desert!
A CUTE LOWLAND FROM MURRAY McDAVID
Not exactly a brand spanking new bottling from these guys, but as they sent me a sample I thought why not!
Murray McDavid Littlemill 1991 (16 year old) 46% ?36.95
Bourbon Cask
Sometimes there is a lot to be said for taking a good whisky and just leaving it to mature in good quality Bourbon oak casks and this is definitely one of those instances. It is crisp and clean on the nose, very grassy with straw, apricot, toffee, earth and banana aromas. Slightly oily and delicate but with a lovely depth to it. On the palate it is quiet oily with apricot, toffee and vanilla which opens into quiet a creamy middle with a slight nuttiness. Lovely length with the grassy character lasting right through to the finish where it signs off with a flourish of soft spice.
RETURN OF THE PRODIGAL DUNCAN!
It?s been awhile since any of the Duncan Taylor bottlings have put in an appearance on the newsletter which has been a shame as they have amazing stocks of wonderfully mature whiskies. Like most independent bottling companies they have had their off moments (can?t give you too much praise guys!) but by and large the quality of their single cask bottlings has been superb. So as the outstanding issues we had have all been resolved I would just like to say ?Welcome back!?
Pittyvaich 1979 (28 year old) 51.4% ?69.95
Cask 5639
Deeper and a lot more oilier than the sample of cask 5638. It has oodles of honied orange fruit, a touch of grass and a better balance of vanilla. Delightfully awesome with hints of soft, ground, sweet spices. A quiet oily entry. Soft, smooth with gloriously honied fruits and a winey sauvignon blanc-esque middle. Clean, hard and mineral finish with the sauvignon character persistent along with a touch of botanicals. A drop of water really doesn?t bring any further revelation so I would drink it neat.
Glen Grant 1970 (37 year old) 49.7% ?86.95
Cask 3490
Wow, definitely a first fill sherry butt! Rich and intense with some serious malty/ coffee drama going on, but the sherry takes the high ground. Oh god this is luxurious. A superb cask. Slightly floral and nutty notes emerge. An almost orgasmic experience, endlessly deep. Not an off note or a sulphur blemish in sight! The palate is dry, full of sherry fruit (surprise!). Intense, oodles of coffee, spice and wood tannins along with orange fruit. Superbly clean and intense with rich, malty dried fruit. A big wow! A drop of water brings out a very slight vegetal note on the nose and reminds me of a spicy madeira sponge cake soaked in coffee and sherry. On the palate it softens and rounds it out. This is so good, mature, mellow with a wonderful balance. Nuff said I think!
Glen Mhor 1975 (32 year old) 42.6% ?75.95
Cask 4031
Very clean and rich. Full of sherried orange fruit, dried, dusty spices and coffee. Luxurious and mature with malty fruit notes. You can quiet happily loose yourself in this nose for hours! Soft and quiet oily on the palate, mature, restrained, clean, focused earthy, mature sherry fruit along with coffee/ chocolate, and old leather armchairs. Lovely balance and very mouth filling with grilled nuts notes in the finish. No need for water this is just perfect.
Interleven 1979 (28 year old) 53.7 ?77.95
Cask 5662
Initially the nose is quiet spirity but once it settles down it displays a lovely depth of orange fruit along with malt and grassy notes. Quiet full for a Lowland with a touch of buttery vanilla, banana and toffee. Soft and creamy on the palate with vanilla, cherries, citrus grass (especially on the middle) yet the alcohol dominates the palate. Lovely garden fresh (peas?) finish. A drop of water softens the nose emphasizing the grass and crisp fruit. On the palate it brings out a lovely sweetness. It has become very full bodied and displays a superb dry, spicy finish. Is this really 28 years old it tastes more like mid teens. Who said Lowlands can?t age? This is an exceptional cask.
Banff 1975 (31 year old) 42.2% ?95.95
Cask 3416
Who this is a serious fight in a florists! Loads of violet, lavender, vanilla oak, salt, orange fruits and distant smoke. Absolutely amazing! I don?t think I?ve ever smelt anything quiet like it. The palate is clean, soft and linear with earthy orange fruit, barley, malt, spice, lavender and just a fleeting touch of vanilla. Finishes with a veritable riot of botanicals! The palate is maybe not as amazing as the nose but as the distillery closed in 1983 you are drinking a priceless bit of heritage!
Glenrothes 1969 (38 year old) 40.7% ?88.95
Cask 381
Mature aromas of old polish, rich, luxurious, spiced orange cake soaked in mature honey. Another nose to loose yourself in! Incredibly complex with candied citrus peel, a touch of smoke, glorious gentle spice and mature wood notes. I don?t think there is any other word to describe it other than graceful! It takes awhile to get going on the palate then the flavour flood out. Mature honey, wax, vanilla, orange fruit cake, and soft cinnamon spice. Quiet a floral middle which descends into a rich plumy, spiced dried fruit cake morass with mature malt extract and a touch of coffee and bitter chocolate. Lovely mouth feel with the floral notes returning on the after taste. A lovely, mature Bourbon cask, the finish is absolutely endless
NOW FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT
PLANTATION RUMS
A QUICK HISTORY LESSON
Although it is usually associated with the Caribbean, sugar cane is not native to the West Indies. It is thought that cane sugar was first used by man in Polynesia from where it spread to India. In 510 BC the Emperor Darius of what was then Persia invaded India where he found "the reed which gives honey without bees". It was the major expansion of the Arab peoples in the seventh century AD that led to a breaking of the secret. When they invaded Persia in 642 AD they found sugar cane being grown and learnt how sugar was made. As their expansion continued they established sugar production in other lands that they conquered including North Africa and Spain.
Sugar was only discovered by western Europeans as a result of the Crusades in the 11th Century AD. Crusaders returning home talked of this "new spice" and how pleasant it was. The first sugar was recorded in England in 1099. The subsequent centuries saw a major expansion of western European trade with the East, including the importation of sugar. It is recorded, for instance, that sugar was available in London at "two shillings a pound" in 1319 AD. This equates to about US$100 per kilo at today's prices so it was very much a luxury.
By the 14th century its cultivation had spread to Italy and Spain. Christopher Columbus is believed to have taken cuttings to the Bahamas and Cuba. Subsequent Spanish expeditions took sugar cane cuttings to the West Indies. Records show that in 1647, ?Kill Devil?, a spirit distilled from fermented sugar cane was produced in Barbados. However Puerto Rico became the first country to make rum on a commercial basis in the mid 19th century and is now the world?s largest rum producer.
Rum found its way to Britain via the Navy. The spirit was nicknamed ?rumbullion? or ?rumbustion? because it made the drinker so unruly. Later this was shortened to rum. British sailors continued to receive their official daily ?tot? of rum until 1970. Today only sugar cane producing countries, such as the West Indies, can make rum but it may be matured in more temperate climates such as in the UK. It is also produced extensively in North and South America, South Africa, Indonesia, India and Australia.
MANUFACTURING
Essentially rum is a by-product of the sugar industry. Sugar cane, a giant type of grass is harvested by chopping down the stems, by hand but leaving the roots so that it re-grows in time for the next crop. Harvest times tend to be during the dry season and the length of the harvest ranges from as little as 2 ? months up to 11 months. The cane is taken to the factory: often by truck or rail wagon but sometimes on a cart pulled by a bullock or a donkey! Attempts at mechanical harvesting have largely failed due to terrain and labour problems. The green side shoots are removed from the cane and the central stem or ?bamboo? is cut up and crushed at the sugar mill in a series of large roller mills: similar to a mangle [wringer] which was used to squeeze the water out of clean washing a century ago to extract the sweet sap. In some mills the cane is crushed up to six times, with the addition of boiling water to extract the maximum amount of juice.
The juice is pretty dirty: the soil from the fields, some small fibers and the green extracts from the plant are all mixed in with the sugar. This can be quite easily cleaned up with slaked lime (a relative of chalk) which settles out a lot of the dirt so that it can be sent back to the fields. Once this is done, the juice is thickened up into a syrup by boiling off the water using steam in a process called evaporation. Sometimes the syrup is cleaned up again but more often it just goes on to the crystal-making step without any more cleaning.
The juice is then boiled in tanks at a low temperature under vacuum to extract the sugar in crystal form. In the factory the workers usually have to throw in some sugar dust to initiate crystal formation. Once the crystals have grown the resulting mixture of crystals and mother liquor is spun in centrifuges to separate the different grades of sugar, then golden sugar and black treacle. Until only sweet, black glutinous molasses, incapable of further refinement remains. The molasses is diluted with an equal quantity of water and fermented with cultured yeast. In most areas this takes two days, but in Jamaica a fermentation of 10 to 12 days, using ?dunder? (the yeast residue from previous distillations), which results in a distinctive, highly flavoured rum. After fermentation the resulting ?wash? of about 10% abv is distilled.
In the past all rum was double distilled in a pot still over a period of 10 to 12 days, allowing a large number of secondary products to pass into the distillate and giving a flavourful, full bodied rum, too pungent for popular tastes (although the skill of the distiller can bring out many variations of flavour and weight).
Nowadays a large amount of rum is made in a continuous still, producing a lighter-flavoured and stronger, yet comparatively neutral spirit. This style forms the majority of white rums and is the basis for some of the finest rum blends.
All rum is water white when it comes of the still. Some colour may be imparted by the wood of the casks in which it was matured, but dark rum generally receives its colour from added caramel, which does not affect the taste, but can soften the character and add body. For very dark rum, the quantity of caramel necessary to achieve the colour would not remain in suspension in the liquid, so the producers use a tasteless, odourless dye, either in conjunction with the caramel or by itself.
AGEING
Rum is aged in oak casks and, to avoid too much evaporation through the pores of the wood, producers often send it to a temperate climate to mature. However all the Plantation rums are matured in the Caribbean as they believe that the Caribbean climate allows the rums to develop their aromas more fully. Approximately 12% of the rum evaporates naturally through the oak every year. This important evaporation accelerates the ageing of Plantation rums and enables them to develop their subtly exotic aromas and flavours to the fullest. Plantation rums are then reduced to the commercial alcoholic degree of 45% alc.vol.
Rum usually needs less time to mature than grain spirits because it has fewer congeners that need to be eliminated by evaporation in cask. Some of the heavier rums need at least six years before they are considered acceptable for blending. The skill of the blenders is all important since it is their experience that indicates exactly when a rum for ageing is at its peak.
TASTINGS
Trinidad 1996 45% ?29.50
A Lovely, rich, waxy nose of coconut, dried fruit, menthol, mint leaves and a citrus note. Rich on the palate but surprisingly delicate with a lovely balance of coconut, dried fruit and menthol. It really is quiet sinus clearing with its minty finish. Very long with a touch of dried spice and salt.
Panama 1997 45% ?29.95
Very pungent aromas of chocolate coated raisins, this is stunning, quiet heavy and oily with sultanas, dried grapes and figs along with a touch of coffee, liquorice and demarara sugar. The palate is big and quiet sweet with a lovely mouth feel. Intense and spicy (cinnamon and clove) with raisins, sultanas, figs and earth. Extremely long hugely spicy finish
Barbados 1995 45% ?32.50
Aged in Bourbon Oak. Delicate and slightly sweet aromas. Very whisky-esque floral orange citrus fruit, honey, light spice, sugar cane and vanilla. Again very whisky-esque on the palate with flavours similar to the nose. Lovely intensity with a long dried fruit (sultanas) finish.
Nicaragua 1998 45% ?32.95
Oily and quiet floral, seems quiet youthful with oodles of banana, banana dipped in toffee and tropical fruit along with a touch of delicate dried fruit and beguiling dusty spices. Light on the palate again oodles of banana dipped in toffee, light oil, dried fruit and spice. Lovely intensity with alcohol soaked raisins and prunes. Very complex with a lovely length and tangy finish.
Grenada 1998 45% ?33.95
Rich and heavy aromas of almost sherried orange fruit, dried fruit and earth. Incredibly deep, slightly oily with banana and cane sugar notes. Not surprisingly very rich on the palate, quiet oily and almost sherried orange fruit, sultanas, raisins, coconut and cane sugar. Very mouth filling and very long with the dried fruit flavours lingering.
Guyana 1990 45% ?38.90
A whisky-esque nose. Lots of aromas of linseed oil, dried fruit and earth. Dry, medium bodied and smooth with dried fruit, figs, raisins and caramelised banana. Very elegant with a slight earthy character and subtle sweet finish.
AH HA! YOU THOUGHT I?D FORGOTTEN SPRINGBANK
Stuart Robertson and Frank McHardy have decided to release a vintage dated Springbank, bottled at its cask strength. The first batch of the 1997 matured in re-charred Sherry Butts for 10 years will be released shortly. Each batch will be numbered (with a neck label) so you know that Batch No1 will become an instant collector?s item as there are only 11,000 bottles available for the world. The normal retail price will be ?42.95, but being an incredibly generous person if you place an order now you can have it for ?40.95. Now we have taken delivery of 12 bottles and as I have my name on one bottle, so that leaves 11 bottles remaining, so it will be first come first served with a maximum of 2 bottles per person (just so everyone gets a chance).
Springbank 1997 (10 year old) 55.2% ?42.95
Crisp and aromatic aromas of creamy/ oily vanilla, smoky peat, orange, apricot, and toasty oats. Quiet coastal (as expected) and incredibly complex with hints of coffee, walnuts and earth. On the palate Batch 1 is rich, crisp yet oily. Tangy orange and apricot conserve mingle with sweet oak, a touch of peat and a mere suggestion of sherry. Very expressive, lovely balance and mouth filling. A drop of water brings out the gorgeous earthy fruit on the nose along with its inherent oiliness. This is loads better than the standard 10 year old! On the palate it brings it all together emphasizing the delicate earthy-peat. In a way it kind of reminds me of Longrow. It finishes with a medicinal menthol note. This is very, very good!
Phew, well that was an action packed newsletter. So if you have any comments or would like to place an order, please contact me in the usual way!
Sincerely
Chris Goodrum