Dear Whisky Customers
Well after a brief hiatus the newsletter returns. And a jam packed one it is as well. There are new releases from Dewar Rattray, and the long awaited first bottling of Raymond Armstrong’s own Bladnoch along with the usual round up of things that I’ve tasted. And don’t forget to check out the new release from the Celtic Spirit Company – It’s an education that bit!
But first, as always a comment!
A COMMENT ON THE LAST NEWSLETTER
Ok, so last time I had a good natured dig at the illustrious Jim Murray (Hi Jim!) and he in turn sent me a nice email in defence so to speak. So as promised this is it in its unadulterated form!
Hi Chris,
Fascinating read!
Great to see Cooley's stunning grain getting the recognition it deserves. And that the love of Welsh whisky is not just a flash in the Penderyn...
Just a slight correction: Ardbeg 10 is my World Whisky of the Year 2008, not 2007. And my holding a peaty bias? Interesting that it is the first time a peaty whisky has won the title in the history of the Bible. I simply try to call it as I see it. Four years ago, bourbon. Three years ago, bourbon. Two years ago, bourbon. Last year a Scottish blend. This year a peated malt. I also have to say that I did my best not to give it the title. I took into account my three-decade love for Ardbeg and did all I could to shoot it down in flames. I couldn't. Sometimes genius will out.
However, exactly this time last week I was giving a tasting in Gent, Belgium. The Ardbeg 10 we had in front of us, I pointed out, would not have won the Award. It appeared to be from an older bottling and did not have that extra depth you and I both spotted. Excellent whisky which brought the house down. But the best in the world? Not that bottling. As I say, Chris, I simply call it as I see it...
Finally, as for being a bit of peat freak. Not really. Just check out the Bible's latest scores for Bowmore and Caol Ila. And Talisker. Adore great peaty whisky. Frustrated by peaty whisky not quite up to the mark and will say so. I could say the same about mouth-watering Speysiders, or Irish, or rye, or Canadian or any other whisky type. Last whisky drank at home while relaxing? Grant's standard blend, two nights ago. And before that? Goldlys Belgium. Hardly the diet of a peat freak....!!
Oh, and finally, finally. The Ardbeg 17 v the Award-winning Ardbeg 10. Simpy don't compare. The original Ardbeg 17 was a marriage of entirely unpeated 17-y-o malts from Ardbeg and much older but massively peated casks that had taken on far too much oak ever to be bottled as a vintage or a single cask. The Ardbeg 10 that blew me away was from 100% peated casks and with a gentler layering of years to ensure a stunning bounce and complexity on the palate. As whiskies, from the same distillery but in style not even close.
Keep up the great work and look forward to invading your shop one day.
Kind regards,
Jim Murray
It makes one feel quiet humble to know that the newsletter is enjoyed by one of the greats of the whisky industry!
NEW RELEASES FROM DEWAR RATTAY
As per usual a bit of a mixed bag, from the sublime to the ridicules! Highlights for me were the Laphroaig, it’s so unusual to see private bottlings from this distillery and I have to ask the question – does this distillery do no wrong? I don’t think I have ever tasted a bad bottling, whether distillery or independent, and this one is no exception. Yes, it’s pricy, but damn it’s worth every penny. I dare say Jim would love it! There were a couple of exceptionally good sherry monsters. As you will all be aware by now, not my favourite style of whisky, but credit where credit is due, and obviously I recognise that there are many customers that do love this style. Big disappointment once again was the Highland Park. How many times must I be frustrated by poor quality private bottling of this great distillery (with the exception of the Murray McDavid bottling reviewed in the round up!). To put it bluntly do they only sell the rubbish to the private bottlers, and if that is their game, then why do the independents play along. I mean every distillery bottling I have tasted has been excellent. The 12 year old is a often go-to for customers wanting something around the £30 mark, so why would anyone pay around £50 for this dreadfully sub-standard bottling – Not me for one!
So in no particular order, the tasting!
Glenglassaugh 1973 (34year old) 52.0% £91.95
A lovely earthy nose, reeking of maturity and the most gorgeous perfumed orange fruit, vanilla and a sprinkling of wood spice. Mellow and beguiling with a touch of re-fill sherry sweetness. The palate is soft and seductively smooth, maybe a touch floral on entry, followed by lovely mature orange and oodles of wood spice. Really good length and depth. A drop of water makes the nose extremely floral, with notes of violet and hyacinth; there’s still the earthiness and a touch of Hessian sack. On the palate it become maybe a tad watery, loosing some of its intensity and brings out a late botanical note. All in all not a bad malt. Amazingly fruity for it’s age, and best drunk neat. At present I’m not stocking this one because I still have a couple of bottles of their previous bottling, so if you can’t wait until they have sold and really want a bottle of this then please let me know.
Highland Park 1992 (16 year old) 52.5% - Not Stocking
A very fatty and oily nose. There’s quiet a bit of peat smoke, but it all lanolin, wool fat and a bit of oily vanilla. Somewhere I can detect a bit of coastal, heather and scrub, but it’s all a bit muted. The palate is flat, again quiet a bit oily. I suspect that some faints probably got into this cask. There is only a slight impression of fruit and quiet a bit of peat smoke and Talisker-esque pepper on the middle, but I’m afraid that it doesn’t redeem it!
Balblair 1990 (17 year old) 62.4% £44.95
A fresh and slightly leafy nose. Moist and delicate with sherry coated soft yellow fruits and spice notes. It has quiet a perfumed top note along with a touch of earthiness. Very mellow and rather beguiling. The palate is soft and juicy opening with cinnamon and sherry spices. Wonderfully fruity with a nice integration of the sherry. Lovely intense, malty mid palate. The alcohol masks the finish a bit and there is quiet a bit of wood tannins too! A drop of water emphasises the leafy, camphor and menthol on the nose and soften the palate in order to reveal the array of peppery spices, which really evolve! It lengthens but the tannins are still noticeable. All in all a lovely mellow sherry monster(ish) cask!
Laphroaig 1990 (18 year old) 56.6% £63.95
Oh yeah, a classic nose, it pretty much couldn’t be from anywhere else! I could wax lyrical about this nose all day, safe to say it has all those classic coastal, briny, peaty, kippery, rubbery coastal fruit aromas in fsherman’s bucket loads along with a slight orange/ tangerine note. I love this stuff! The palate is quiet drying, almost shy I would say but like the nose it’s all there along with a dollop of dry spice. Tasted nest the alcohol dominates, but wow! A drop of water has absolutely no bearing on the intensity, this is fabulous stuff and do I detect a touch of melon? On the palate with the alcohol and raging peat calmed a bit it allows the peppery, rubbery coastal notes to shine. The finish is immense, it just goes on and on and on and…..
Linkwood 1989 (18 year old) 58.7% £57.95
Ah yes, definitely without a shadow of a doubt a fresh Sherry butt! (The colour kind of gives that away). This is a real monster, but immaculately clean with not an off note in sight. As expected there’s a huge dollop of sherry fruit and spice along with notes of violets and chocolate followed by a touch of malty/ grassiness, flax(?), pear(?), liquid honey, raisins and dried fruit. Very complex! The palate is pure Oloroso, quiet leafy and tannic with flavours mirroring the nose along with a hint of coffee (Colombian?) and beeswax. Water brings out that afore mentioned coffee note on the nose along with honied orange fruit and again that leafiness on both nose and palate. This is a very good sherry cask, probably not one for the summer, but if you like it like this, then you’ll love it any time of the year!
Longmorn 1992 (15 year old) 56.8% £44.95
This is a nice Longmorn, probably not as intense as the James McArthur 14 year old, but it’s still very nice. It’s rich and fruity on the nose, packed with apricot, orange and tangerine flavours abetted by a touch of vanilla, developing spice and dunnage warehouse floors. The palate is quiet oily and again jam packed with an array of soft peach, apricot, orange and tangerine. It’s a veritable fruit salad that fills the mouth nicely. Lovely intensity with a touch of salt and spice to give it complexity. Good, long oily length. A drop of water softens and brings out crisp barley and an apple blossom note on the nose along with light coffee. On the palate, if anything it makes it a tad sweeter, brining out oodles of candied fruit and crisp barley. It’s velvety soft, like angels dancing on the tongue! Lovely!
Glencadam 1990 (17 year old) 59.1% - Not stocking
It seems to initially have quiet a dense nose with perfumed, mature orange, barley and malt notes along with a touch of spice. However it’s really shy and the aromas take a lot of swirling and coaxing out. The palate is quiet soft and slightly oily, showing earthy orange fruit, citrus and a touch of straw/ grass. The intensity builds nicely through out finishing with a lovely sherberty sweet/ spicy finish. A drop of water subdues an already shy nose and brings out a waxy, lanolin note. On the palate it emphasises the sherberty character as well as the grass/ straw note. It’s pleasant, certainly not bad, with good fruit, but at the end of the day it’s a touch evanescent.
Port Ellen 1982 (25 year old) 60.4% £85.95
First off, where on earth was this cask stored and what abv did it come off the still at? I mean after 25 years you would expect it to be in the mid 50’s at best! Now if I remember my basics of warehouse maturation (and I’m sure somebody will correct me if I’m wrong!). In a warm environment you tend to loose more liquid to the angels, but the liquid that remains tends to keep its alcohol level fairly high. So you would expect there to be only a handful of bottles from this cask (less than 100 I’d say), and you’d be wrong, there is 199. To me this is what makes whisky so fascinating!
So is it any good I hear you ask. Too right it is! It’s a dead ringer for Laphroaig! It’s intense and coastally with a medicinal/ bog myrtle peatiness and all those wonderful rubbery, kippery, fishermans sowesters aromas assailing the senses! It seems remarkably youthful, If I didn’t actually know the age then I would have guessed at somewhere in the mid teens. However the palate does show its age, it’s a bit shy and slightly oily, with all the aromas present and correct on the palate. Obviously its high level of alcohol dominates the proceedings but it leaves an oily/ peaty tongue coating at the death. A drop of water brings out a Caol Ila like garden fruit note, peas and apricot and relegates the rubbery, medicinal peatiness to a supporting role. On the palate it has become a bit sweeter, now showing a touch of barley and malt and fading into a briny/ leafy/ bog myrtle finish. A truly fascinating dram, enjoyable either neat or diluted!
Stonachie 1976 (31 year old) 52.6% £81.95
A lovely very sweet nose of chocolate and coffee. There is a grainy Bourbon like note which reminds me of old Invergordon along with a hint of violet. This is a really complex nose, very big with loads of vanilla and a touch of sherry. Quiet earthy and fruity with dusty/ smoky spices, mature liquid honey and a perfumed top not. Amazing I could sit an sniff this all night! The palate is mature and dusty with liquid honey and toffee. Quiet a bit of wood tannins but they mellow into cinnamon and sherry spices. The palate is a bit brash and maybe a touch less complex than the nose would suggest but it is resplendent of the most gorgeous honeyed orange fruit. A drop of water mellow the nose and it shows its age and the mature honey now dominates the proceedings. On the palate it gives it more focus and purity and the tannins are now less prevalent and only really come through on the finish. All in all a delightful mature dram. Definitely one to contemplate.
THE EXCITING NEW RELEASES FROM BLADNOCH
What an amazing, interesting tasting. Raymond has released three expressions. A Bourbon matured, a Sherry matured and a lightly peated version. As you will see from my notes below the bourbon aged bottling has practically no wood influence, so it displays the distillery character to the full and very surprising it is too. It is very heavy on the congeners, and has a distinctive marc-like character of old rose petals and is very different from any other bottle of Bladnoch I have ever tasted. Tasting them with a very good friend who is quiet knowledgeable about the distillery we wondered if this congener heavy style was down to the little known fact that the distillery has technically no spirit still. In actual fact both the stills in use currently at the distillery are wash stills, which can be determined by the fact that they both have sight glasses on the necks.
Often, but not always a spirit still will be smaller than the wash still and designed to finish the spirit off (for want of a term) and may often look distinctly different to the wash still. A longer neck, bigger condenser, different angle to the lyne arm, etc. For example a still with a short neck or a lyne arm that slopes downward will allow stronger flavours from the oils in the malt to pass into the distillate, whereas a still with a taller neck or an upward sloping lyne arm will only allow the lightest oils to pass into the distillate and return the heavier oils to the still thus producing a lighter, more elegant spirit.
So in summation, the final spirit will often have less heavy congeners and I believe it is the reason that older bottling of Bladnoch exhibits the classic Lowland citrus/ grassy character. Now I know this is a big generalisation, because every distillery has quirks and different styles of still. However another factor, especially in Lowland whiskies is the fact that in the past may were triple distilled, which will give an even lighter, less congener heavy style. As attested to by Auchtentoshan. Many would argue that it has no real style at all, which is why the distillery uses a lot of sherry casks, and having tasted a few Bourbon casked versions I have a tendency to go along with that theory, but I digress!
I think Jim McEwan sums up the purpose of the second distillation “The second distillation will really separate the good from the not so good. The foreshots are heavy in oil, the nose is that of rubber tyres, fish oils and slightly sulphury. The texture is like mutton fat – not very pleasant on the palate or the nose. Then as if by magic, the spirit clears and the heart is found. Now we are in olfactory paradise. Finding the flavours in the middle cut is like watching rainbows. One minute it’s there the next it’s gone and like the rainbow with its seven colours, there are seven fruit flavours. The fruity esters of pear, apple, banana, peach, apricot, melon and tangerine fill the senses. Sometimes there is more pear than tangerine – again each Distillery has its own preferred style and if the malt is peated, the aromas are a fantastic mix. It’s like sweet and sour. Add a sprinkle of nutty flavour which will also have come from the fermentation process and you are in heaven. Also in the new spirit the sweetness is like a good old-fashioned toddy, not and sugary, sweet with a real fresh cereal flavour on the finish.”
After I had written the above piece I asked Raymond if he wouldn’t mind sending me a sample of new make spirit, which he did, and I would like to say a big thank you to him for that. So by tasting this sample it would either prove or disprove my theory, and as you can see from my tasting note below it does indeed prove my theory. It is interesting to note that the marc-like character only really started to become more noticeable after adding a drop of water, which I would guess (very roughly) would have brought the abv down to around 60% ish. Another interesting note is that it was nowhere near as greasy as the 6 year old Bourbon Matured, which probably has more to do with where the still man took the cut, and that is a discussion best left to another day if I want to finish this newsletter!
The lightly peated is rather good and reminds me quiet a bit of the Pendryn. It is interesting to note that the sample of it at 5 years old displays a lot less of the marc-like aromas and has a more obvious grassy note on the nose, however the 6 year old has a greater depth of sweetness, barley and malt, and certainly seems more evolved, even after just an extra year. But my favourite of the three was the sherry matured! I bet that surprised you!
To sum up I think this is obviously a work in progress. I think the Bourbon matured needs more time and more wood integration, the peated likewise needs more time. The sherry although the best of the three needs time also, but it is good to see that the spirit can hold its own against the dominating wood. Raymond has obviously taken exceptional care in his sourcing of sherry butts as it is impeccably clean and has a very good balance even at this tender age.
All I can say is that tasting these has been a fascinating experience, and the quality definitely bodes well for the future.
Bladnoch New Make 71.4%
Slightly oily on the nose with that obvious new make cereal character. It’s incredibly clean with a slight discernable fruitiness and only a touch of the marc-like rose petal notes that I was looking for. Given some time a touch of perfume and an earthy note becomes apparent. Initially it is quiet sweet, again with the cereal/ biscuity flavours evident. Like the nose it is exceptionally clean and there is a touch of rose petals, and obviously a lot of alcohol. A drop of water now makes the marc-like rose petals a lot more noticeable. It also emphasises its sweetness and perfumed note. On the palate it makes it a touch more citrus in character with some coffee and yet again more of the marc=like character. Actually it is very drinkable, rounded and with a lovely sweetness. Very long with cereal and straw after taste.
Bladnoch 6 year old Bourbon Matured 57.3% - Not Stocking
This is extremely pale in colour. It must have been matured in a well used Bourbon cask as there is pretty much no wood influence whatsoever hence the nose opens with a lot of acetone and high notes. There is some grass and citrus but it is very young and spirity and consequently the marc-like rose petal character swamps any discernable lowland character. The palate is pretty much like the nose raw, alcoholic and marc-like with a bit of sweetness coming through on the finish. A drop of water makes the nose very greasy – wool fat and lanolin, extremely heavy on the congeners. On the palate it is much the same with a dunnagey, slightly botanical note on the finish.
Bladnoch 6 year old Lightly Peated 58.5% 70cl £38.95 20cl £13.95
This is darker in colour than the Bourbon matured, which would indicate that there is more wood influence here. It seems richer but still has some of that marc-like rose petal aromas amongst the light earthy-peat and smoke. Obviously the greater wood influence makes it appear more together, as there definitely a more noticeable vanilla character. It also seems a bit more oiler/ fatter. The palate is quiet oily and fat and very intense and dominated by its alcohol. The light peat and smoke are all present but the palate is a lot more evolved than the nose would suggest and there is definitely less of the marc-like notes. In fact there’s a lovely buttery/ vanillery note. I definitely think it benefits from a drop of water, which brings out the sweetness, vanilla and gristy barley character, lengthening and leaving a lovely coal dust finish.
Bladnoch 6 year old Sherry Matured 56.9% 70cl £38.95 20cl £13.95
Very much darker and I would imagine that this was matured in a first fill butt. It’s rich and crisp on the nose, exceptionally clean and creamy with sherry and coffee aromas. The marc-like rose petal notes stand up well to the cask and it has a lovely fresh, edgy feel to it along with a touch of menthol. The palate is superb, full of moist, rich fruit cake flavours, chocolate and raisins. The marc-like notes develop on the middle along with a straw and dunnage note also, The sherry returns with a chocolate drop vengeance adding roasted coffee bean notes and a slight violet note in the finish. A drop of water makes the nose a lot creamier the coffee and chocolate drops are set against a fabulous citrus background. It also brings out an orange blossom note as well. On the palate it pushes the sherry influence to the background allowing the marc-like rose petal notes to show fully. There are also some lovely dry, earthy, organic spices to compliment the wood tannins. It’ll be intriguing to see how these casks evolve over time.
NEW RELEASE FROM THE CELTIC SPIRIT COMPANY
Keepers Tipple Whisky Liqueur 27.5% 50cl £15.95
According to the letter that accompanied this sample. “Our Keepers Tipple is a whinberry whisky liqueur. In the true tradition of all our drinks has been developed from an old recipe from the Usk Valley where the whinberries still grow wild on the side of the Blorenge Mountain in the area known as the Keepers’ Hill” – Seriously! I’m not making this up!
So after some research it would transpire that whinberry (or winberry) is a name given to several species of low-growing srubs in the genus Vaccinium that bears fruit. The species most often referred to is Vaccinium myrtillus L., also known as European blueberry, blaeberry, bilberry, whortleberry, myrtle blueberry, fraughan, and probably other names regionally. They were called black-hearts in 19th century southern England, according to Thomas Hardy’s 1878 novel. The Return of the Native.
The Blorenege Mountain overlooks the market town of Abergavenny and the village of Llanfoist. It rises to a height of 1,833 feet and looks out over the valley of the river Usk to the equally high, or slightly higher southern flank of the Black Mountains, which is part of the southern sector of the Brecon Beacons national Park. I bet you didn’t expect a geography and horticulture lesson!
Anyway on to what it tastes like: I was expecting a light, fruity, fluffy nose, but whoa! This is unexpected. It’s serious, herby, smoky wild and fruity with coffee, blackcurrant, blueberry, damsons, plums and perfumed kirsch-like top note. Thick and smoky on the palate. There is a touch of rose petal marc to open the proceedings then it gets quiet sweet with loads of blueberry, loganberry, blackcurrant, and do I detect a bit of peat amidst the wild, scrubby herbs? Although low in alcohol it keeps the sweetness in check quiet nicely and th finish is not bad either! If you like their Black Mountain then you will love this.
ARRAN TASTING
A little while ago the rep for the Arran distillery paid me a visit, armed with samples and this was the result.
Lochranza Blend 40% - Not Stocking
Faint whiff of plastic dissipates quickly followed by straightforward aromas of yellow fruits, apples and crisp grain and a touch of coastalness. The palate is initially about the crisp grain, followed by the soft malty fruit. It has a nice spicy middle and is quiet intense and tangy. Nice length.
Robert Burns Blend 40% - Not Stocking
A bit of a reticent nose. It has a greater depth of malty fruit than the Lochranza and is balanced by the grainy edge. Soft, clean and fruity. One would guess that there is a higher malt content, but it’s a bit dull. The crisp grain briefly livens the mid palate. It lacks complexity and the intensity of the Lochranza.
Robert Burns Malt 40% - Not Stocking
Rich and fruity on the nose. Definite Arran signature here, fleshy yellow fruits, apple and coastal notes. Clean, fruity and pleasant on the palate. It has an almost sauvignon blanc character. Lacks the intensity and maturity of the 10 year old, but it is pleasantly drinkable.
The Arran Malt 10 year old 46% £33.95
An intense and very clean nose. Opens with lashings of crisp barley, a refreshing breezy coastal note and distant smoke. Great depth and complexity the aromas continue to exude! Apricot, orange, tropical fruit, quince, lime - the list goes on. Superbly clean with a hint of vanilla oak, malt and dunnage floors. Again the palate is extremely clean and fruity. Like the nose it starts with the wonderfully crisp barley followed by apricot and fleshy tropical fruit. It goes on! – next up creamy vanilla, spices, delicate smoke and coastal notes. Lovely long coastal saturated after taste. What a character!
Arran 100 Proof 57% £36.95
Very reminiscent of Bruichladdich on the nose. Loads of crisp apples, apricot and yellow fleshy fruits, followed by crisp barley, orange, lemon and lime. Delicately coastal which develops a touch of coffee over time. Lovely intensity on the palate, rich and fruity with apricot, apple, pure honey and heather,. Good complexity and a nice balance with the crisp barley, wood notes and ginger coming in on the middle. Very long finish, finally showing its island/ coastal character. Definitely a summery dram.
Arran Gold Cream Liqueur 17% - Not Stocking
Cream aromas of toffee and coffee. The palate is pleasantly creamy, with a nice freshness. Full of toffee/ coffee flavours and a touch of dark chocolate. The coastal notes come through on the finish.
A GENERAL ROUND UP OF TASTINGS
Wemyss Vintage Malts – 1972 Admiral of the Sea 46% - Not Stocking
Apparently this is a single cask from Campbeltown. Well you certainly wouldn’t have guessed it! For a start it is a weird murky/ tawny greenish colour and probably the best thing you can say about the nose is that is frisky for it’s age! Aroma wise it’s all over the place, some earthiness here, manure there, a bit of orange and sweet citrus somewhere over there! The palate is truly awful! And there are not many whiskies I have tasted that I can say that about. Initially its quiet sweet and sherberty, but then it descended into a murky, muddy sludge with marc-like decaying rose petals, tannins and musty old shoe leather. It was balanced, if that is the correct term by a wincing sharpness and a peppery finish. To me it seems like it was a vatting but if it was a single cask then where on earth did they dredge it up from? Campbeltown Loch perhaps? According to their web site they have an expert nosing panel to select their casks – Well they definitely had an off day when they selected this!
Murray McDavid – Macallan 16 year old 46% £TBC
Bourbon/ Madeira
A big, rich and fruity nose of apricot, peach and nectarines. The Madeira presence gives it a shortbread biscuit and a raisiny note. It is nicely complimented by a touch of coastal, demarara sugar and a slightly floral top note. Dry, soft and polished on the palate. The Madeira influence is obvious from the start - shortbread biscuit and a raisiny dried fruit and demarara sugar followed by coastal notes and loads of developing spice. Full flavoured, robust with a good length and a toasted coconut after taste. An interesting twist on an old favourite.
Murray McDavid – Highland Park 16 year old 46% £TBC
Sherry/ Port
As always I approach red wine finished malts with a bit of trepidation, and as it was Highland Park it made it double the trepidation! However the guys have produced a superb bottling. It has a deep, dense nose of rich red berry and cherry fruit followed by smoke, a touch of rubber and coastal notes. The finish is very nicely integrated and the overall impression of complexity is abetted with a smidge of peat. Soft and subtly smoky on the palate. Waves of sweet red foresty fruit hit the palate followed by the classic Highland Park smoky/ heathery character, and it doesn’t stop there! Following that there is crisp barley and honey notes. It’s obviously pretty heavy on the finishing cask but the spirit really stands up to it and is not entirely swamped. Amazingly good after taste – coffee/ mature wine soaked Hessian cloth!
Old Pulteney 12 year old 40% £24.95
A pleasant, clean, honeyed, malty nose. Quiet rounded, full and fruity with fleshy apricot, mango, tropical fruits, vanilla oak, spice and maritime notes. Again clean and fruity on the palate, nice and soft with plenty of apricot and creamy, sweet oak. It opens into a lovely coastal middle – all tangy and windswept! Good length with a malty/ salty finish. Excellent value for money I’d say!
Nikka Yoichi 15 year old 45% £69.95
A lovely mature nose of rich honey, beeswax, delicate peat and mature sherry. Wow this is amazingly complex, the aromas continue with malt, dried raisins/ sultanas, lashings of gingery spice and liquid orange fruit. The Palate opens with malty, mature honey, then comes the wood spice, barley and a slight winey note. This is truly amazing; the flavours merge and develop on the tongue, now there’s dried Armagnac-esque dried fruits, a waft of gentle peat, barley, vanilla and spice. Succulent and complex with quiet a salty flourish in the finish. This is amazing – I’m almost lost for words!
AND FINALLY
With all that talk of rose petal-like marc characters, I thought I should add a review of a marc! – It’s seems fitting! Hopefully we will be shipping some later in the year.
Domaine Grand Veneur – Marc de Chateauneuf-du-Pape 40% £TBC
Now that is definitely Marc! But it is balanced by a gorgeously sweet orange note. This is very polish and a lot less rustic than some. Rounded and dare I say it almost summery? My this is fruity, full of redcurrants, peaches and cream and absolutely NO manure! On the palate it is creamy, rich and fruity with loads of redcurrant, straw and rose petals. Lovely and smooth, quiet delicate and polished with maybe a nod in the direction of rusticity. Great intensity, good length with a slightly floral/ herbal note in the finish.
Ok, that’s it for now. Hope you enjoyed the read.
Regards
Chris Goodrum